You can use these brackets on a E28 subframe to correct the camber and toe when lowering the vehicle. I personally used these on my E21 when I did a subframe swap.
Old subframe brackets get cut off and you weld these ones on in place.
These eliminate the need for camber/toe correction plates.
Camber/toe correction plates may correct the geometry problem but they also introduce bushing binding as the brackets are no longer in line with the bushing. When you weld these on, they are welded inline with the bushing giving you the correct camber/toe and zero binding on the bushing.
Comes with brackets and braces for the tops.
Since these brackets are cut to order I can not offer returns on this custom product.
THESE ARE NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART! YOU WILL NEED TO KNOW HOW TO MEASURE, CUT, AND WELD. MAKE SURE YOURE UP FOR THE TASK BEFORE CUTTING YOUR STOCK SUBFRAME.
#1 Measure where your stock trailing arms sit side to side so you know where to set the new brackets later. Do not measure from the inside/diff as it is not centered. Measure from the outside/wheel. Write these measurements down. Measure a lot because once your brackets are cut off, you wont have these measurements.
#2 Cut off all the stock subframe brackets that hold the trailing arms to the subframe.
#3 Bolt on the supplied subframe brackets to the trailing arms (not subframe).
Because the E28 subframe is tapered, you will use larger/longer brackets on the inside (towards wheel) and the shorter versions towards the outside/diff. See the picture above showing where the pairs go. You have 8 brackets, 2 of them are the same or 4 pairs of 2.
#4 Make sure the brackets fit nicely against the subframe and the wheel bearings are parallel to the subframe just like stock. The brackets should line up most everything for you.
#5 Measure all the brackets from the ends of the subframe in the same spot side to side. Do not measure from the diff side as it is not centered. This will align the brackets side to side. The brackets sitting nicely on the subframe will center it height wise and front to back so all you need is the side to side measurements to get everything correct.
#6 Tack weld the brackets to the subframe
#7 Align the rear wheels for toe and for camber. Check Google or YouTube for the "bucket" method or use your own way to get your desired results.
#8 Once you have the alignment, tack weld the washer that holds the trailing arms to the brackets and fully weld the brackets to the subframe.
#9 You can also weld the braces to the subframe/brackets at this time. They are not 100% necessary but they do strengthen the setup quite a bit and are recommended.
#10 Take your car to an alignment shop and they can double check the alignment and they can secure it by tack welding the washers or doing a full weld around the washer (this will be harder to change the alignment later but is stronger.... I just tack welded and have 10K miles on my setup without issue).